The Central Drakensberg rock art region, spanning from Giants Castle in the south to Dadima/ Cathedral Peak in the North, offers some of the best examples of Bushman rock art in the country. This diminutive tribe, the original inhabitants of the area, unfortunately disappeared towards the end of the 19th century. Their nomadic, hunter-gatherer lifestyle became severely restricted firstly, by the early Nguni tribes encroachment into the interior, and then later by the European settlers who took exception to the Bushman’s hunting and rustling of their cattle. Many were killed in “hot pursuit” operations and others either moved on or integrated into the Bantu tribes. A cave in the Champagne Valley ” Kaybar’s cave” contains the remains of 3 graves 2 adult and 1 child,the contents of which were removed in the 1930,s and examined at Wits university and were found to be admixtures of San and Bantu somewhat proving this theory. The graves can still be observed today and the bodies were buried in an upright seating position. The bones also showed traces of cannibalism. The last known artifact of San presence in the area is a bow and quivers found in 1929 at Eland Cave in the Didimi area.The San either moved on , or more likely were absorbed into the local tribes. Few remnants remain of their culture but fortunately the painted caves offer some insight. A few of the early explores also took an interest in their art and culture and from the early 1800’s there is a fair amount of written data.. This is however a mere fraction of their total history as their roots go back thousands of years. In many publications the politically correct term used for the bushmen grouping is “San” or “Koy San” or “Koy Koy” all loose definitions covering the original inhabitants of Southern African region, although each sub group had distinctly different cultures.The Bushmen were predominantly hunter gatherers and never kept livestock.
The Meaning of the paintings
Although many of the messages in the paintings are shrouded in mystery common themes include the bushman’s close relationship with nature; their prey, of which the Eland features prominently; day to day life;a spiritual dimension, and the passing of history. A good guide or a study of the subject is essential for gaining even a small glimmer of understanding. The paintings can either be monochrome, bi chrome or poly chrome. ( single colour, two colours or 3 or more colours) Many paintings depict Pherianthrope’s which could be interpreted as men with hunting head gear although it is known that the bushmen had strong spiritual leanings and some are thought to have been painted in a trance like state by Sharman and therefore could depict scenes from the afterlife. Some paintings depict the passing history, as illustrated by wagon and horseman painting in Bamboo Mountain, and others, such as the cattle paintings in Dingaans Cave, and Black Ox Cave in the Champagne Valley seem to indicate a liaison with the Nguni tribes as the Bushmen did not keep cattle. Battle scenes and hunting scenes also feature prominently and a visit to Battle Cave in Injasuti can be a chilling reminder of man’s war like nature with it’s bleeding warriors and men folk being restraining form the battle by their womenfolk.
Rock Art Protocol
Cave sites may only be entered if accompanied by an Amafa registered guide. Fortunately, however some of the main sites have available guides and allow visitors. There are over 8650 recorded rock art sites in South Africa but according to Dr Janette Deacon an authority on the subject there are probably 25,000 to 30,000 sites in total, and the Drakensberg offers the highest concentration of rock are in sub Saharan Africa. . Unfortunately, over time the paintings have deteriorated and there are moves afoot, using high-tech laser scanning to digitally record the paintings. The project named Rock Art Mapping Project ( Ramp for short) has documented 500 sites of which 80 have been scanned, a drop in the ocean, but nevertheless a start.
This painted shelter is easily accessed and is a short walk from the Giants Castle camp. The site is fenced and guided tours commence at the cave entrance hourly 9.00 am to 3.00 pm. They take a maximum of 13 people at a time, so get there early, and cost R 25.00 ( tickets available at Giants Castle reception phone 036 3533718). This is an extensively painted cave although it has badly weathered over time. The Park authorities have built walk ways to protect the cave floor and prevent direct access to the rock face. There is also a life-sized bushman model scene depicting the life of a bushman family. The guides are informative and will explain the various panels.
Injasuti (Meaning Valley of the dogs)
This cave is located in the Injasuthi ( translated as valley of the well-fed dog) valley and is a strenuous 5-hour hike from the Injasuthi camp. Guided hikes leave daily at 8.30 am. Booking essential – phone 036 4319000. The cave is fenced so cannot be accessed without a guide. It is famous for the extensive battle scene, a chilling reminder that the idealistic hunter-gatherer lifestyle was occasionally marred by conflict. The battle panel shows women folk trying to restrain their kin from entering the battle, arrows flying in all directions, and wounded and dying warriors. There are also numerous other well-preserved paintings and a visit to this cave is a must for anyone interested in art and culture.
Grindstone cave at Injasuthi.
This series of caves are a 2 hour walk from the Injasuthi camp. There are 5 caves in a row below the the sandstone cliffs stretching for about 1 kilometer. Only 2 of the caves are painted but other than one excellent painting of an eland the paintings are very worn and indistinct. The first 2 caves are not painted and can be slept in. They also have water. The second cave in the row has a grindstone, a relic of the past. It does not appear to be of Nguni origin as it is round with a square hole in the center so was probably made by early Voortrekkers.
Compensation 1 & 2.
These paintings are on the side of rocks below the Little Berg on the path between Wonder Valley and Injasuthi. It is a long slog to get there and the paintings are somewhat faded. They are predominately monochromes of bushmen and antelope.
Although extensively painted many of the paintings are on private property and their whereabouts a closely guarded secret.
Cow Cave ( also known as Boschrand)
This cave is accessed from The Oaks Supermarket in Dragon Peaks Park and is a guided trip leaving most mornings at 9.00 am. The path goes through private property and the paintings are on private property so a guide is essential. It is a pleasant round walk of approximately 3 hours. The panels are well preserved and depict several buck species and a painting of a cow, probably indicating contact between the Bushmen and the Nguni tribes..
Black Ox shelter
This delightful cave, the beauty of which has been marred by alien vegetation encroachment, is situated on the way to Wonder Valley. It is named after the painting of a black ox once again indication a liaison with the Nguni tribes that lived in the area.
This small site is situated on the path between Champagne Castle Hotel and The Sphinx path at Monks Cowl . It is on the Champagne Castle Hotel’s property so access is with permission of the hotel management. The site is well marked and is a small set of paintings of Mountain Reed Buck on the underside of a large fallen rock.
This cave is situated at the Afriquest development along the road to Bell Park Dam. The paintings are a short distance west from the main farmhouse. The large cave has been somewhat trashed by soldiers who occupied it in the early 1900’s . But this is a history in itself as there is a carving of the regimental badge in one of the rock faces.The cave has also been trashed by recent grafitti and crude attempts to copy the paintings in blue paint a great pity as this good example of out natural history has been badly damaged. Access by permission of the owners.
There are 2, possibly 3, painted caves at Fernwood lodge of which one is easily accessible. It is fairly extensively painted with several panels of buck and some human figures, although they are very faded. Nevertheless, it is worth a visit but as it is on private property permission from the management is necessary.
Uthekwane Rock art site
About 4 km north of Cayley Lodge ( now Holiday club) above the Ama Swazi settlement is an extensive rock ledge where 2 small streams enter the valley below. On the South side of this ledge is a small overhand with some reasonably well-preserved paintings comprising of a few Eland some other antelope, human figures and a very faint therianthrope (half human half animal drawing).This site has been badly damaged by graffiti and is now closed to the public. This cave has also been effected by the unstable rock formation in the cave wall several cracks having appeared with possible negative future impact on the paintings.
There is a small painted panel on the Eastern side of Arthur’s Seat. Access is through private property so permission is required and they are hard to find so a guide would be necessary.
This valley lies between the Champagne Valley and Injasuti, and can be accessed after a long walk from the R 600 just below Champagne Castle Hotel. This is private property so access is only by permission of the owners. It can also be reached from Injasuthi camp.Travelling North from Injasuthi following the path around the edge of Compensation Hill there are 2 painted sites on loose rocks on the bottom ridge a well preserved painting in each with signs of other paintings that have now faded.( Compensation 1 & 2). Following this path in a northerly direction one reaches Wonder valley. There are painted sites along the sandstone ridge next to a small waterfall. From there, there is a small ill defined steep path up the ridge to the top of the Little Berg and Wonder Valley cave, a magnificent cave for an overnight. It may also be reached from Injasuthi camp via Van Heineken’s Pass. There are several painted caves in the area aptly named Wonder Valley 6,7 & 8 which still have visible paintings, monochromes and bio chromes in red and white depicting hunters and their prey. Wonder Valley 8 has a good panel of bushmen about 300 mm in height, which although faint are still visible. These paintings are somewhat strange as they seem to depict a group of men in headgear and battle ready and the faintness of the paintings leads to some conjecture regarding their tribal origin and purpose. Two of the caves have faint images left and must have been magnificent in the past. The paintings in the final cave have all but disappeared. The caves are difficult to find even with a GPS as they are in an undulating area and in a rock band on the eastern slope. Luckily due to their remoteness there has been no vandalism or graffiti.
uKhahlamba Park – Monks Cowl
A number of sites can be accessed from the Monks Cowl Entrance to the ukhahlamba world heritage site. Generally however these are hard to find as none of the modern maps show the painted caves ( in an attempt to restrict access), and it requires a long walk. Remember you need to have an Amafa registered guide to access these sites and that all the caves in the Didima valley are now restricted and require a special permit from Amafa before they can be visited.
This painted cave is close to Zulu Cave. It requires a long walk up the Sphinx path to Breakfast Stream and on to Blind Man’s Corner and the contour path. Turn right at the contour path to Hlathikulu Neck taking the Keith Bush Camp turnoff. The path to Zulu Cave turns off to the right on the Keith Bush Camp path. An overnight stay is suggested as it is a long way.This cave contains a good array of rock art one painting of significance is a monochrome of a Wildebees about 400 mm long the only known painting of this animal in the Central Drakensberg. One wonders if they were resident in the area in the past or whether the artist painted from memory, as they are generally plains animals. There is also a ghost like image about 500 mm high not typical of bushman rock art more akin to ” Casper the ghost”.There are also several poly chrome paintings of Eland, one in particular is noteworthy as it is painted in a much darker tone than the others. This might signify an old bull.
This small shelter on top of the Little Berg overlooking the valley has a few good paintings. It is on the path past Stable Cave and is a long walk starting either at Monks Cowl or from above Berg View taking the Jacobs Ladder path.
Vaal Rhebuck Cave
This painted cave lies beyond Stable Cave, a long walk probably requiring an overnight stay.
This cave lies on the edge of the Didima gorge half way between Monks Cowl and Didima/ Cathedral Peak. There is a single painting of a leopard chasing a man and by the closeness of the encounter, it is definitely not a self-portrait
This extensively painted cave, one of the best painted sites in the country, is situated on the South Eastern side of the Didima valley. Special permission is required to visit this site. It can either be accessed from Monks Cowl or from the Didima / Cathedral Peak side. It is an extremely long hike from either side and should be done as an overnight trip. The paintings are well preserved and are numerous and varied. This cave is the last recorded contact with Bushmen and is the site where a bow and quivers were found in 1931.
Rock Art Interpretive Centre. The conservation authorities have established Rock Art Interpretive centre at the Didima Camp and a top class audio-visual shows are presented on a daily basis. These offer a good insight into the life of the Bushmen and their Rock Art. The center opens at 8.00 am and closes at 4.00 pm and presents shows every hour. (however phone beforehand to check times 036 4888000)
Although not in the Central Drakensberg the Northern Drakensberg caves are about an hours drive from the Champagne Valley and the reason why included in this guide is that there is an excellent painted cave the “New Beginning” which although on private property may be visited with a guide supplied by the Drakensville Resort. The walk is less than a 4 hour return trip and would be classified as an easy walk with no steep climbs. For more information contact Drakensville on 036 4386287