Hiking trails of the Champagne Valley area of the Central Drakensberg
The Central Drakensberg’s Champagne Valley offers a great variety of hiking trails to suit most hiking enthusiasts from short beginner ambles to the more adventurous overnight trails. The Champagne Valley is a unique area in the Drakensberg as the valley itself is some 1200 meters above sea level with a moderate climate and yet is surrounded by some of the highest peaks in the Drakensberg range of which Champagne Castle is one of the highest at 3377 meters. This vast contrast between gentle valleys surrounding towering peaks results in spectacular mountain scenery. The Valley is also the most developed in the Drakensberg with several fine hotels, golf courses, restaurants, and various types of accommodation, to suit all budgets and yet close by one can enter the uKhahlamba Park, a world heritage site, where one can escape into the wilderness and feel almost alone in the vastness of nature. This is an area of spectacular natural beauty with gentle gurgling streams of crystal water, thundering waterfalls and an abundance of flora and fauna..
There are numerous hikes in the area some of which are on private property and others which enter the World Heritage site. When however you enter the World Heritage site remember that the entrance fee must be paid, so if not entering from the main gate arrangements must be made with the Nature Conservation services who can be contacted on 036 4691103. Rhino cards are also acceptable. The entrance fee not only provides funds to maintain the park but in the unfortunate event of an accident it will cover the cost of rescue.
Do’s and don’ts of hiking in the Drakensberg
Do’s
Do wear well worn in hiking boots particularly on longer hikes.
Do use sun block and a hat (- The mountain sun is unforgiving even on overcast days)
Do make sure you have a good map. This applies particularly to longer hikes as you can easily get lost.
Do fill in the mountain register if going on an overnight or longer hike.
Do take a cell phone and make sure you have emergency phone numbers.
Do take a warm waterproof jacket even in summer as the weather can change very quickly.
Do take a water bottle with at least 1 liter of fluid. You usually can fill up on route from one of the many streams but this is not guaranteed. Also do not drink water from the river if there is development up stream as it could be contaminated.
Do take food for an extra day if you camping out, just in case.
Do Take a first aid kit if going on a longer hike.
Don’ts
Don’t go off the designated path. Baboon and game trails can often deceive you and you could end up on a cliff edge and need rescue
Don’t make fires. This is strictly prohibited and can result in run away fires. ( in a recent case a environmentally conscious person set alight some toilet paper and started a fire that burnt out a large tract of land.
Don’t split up from your group unless you have a pre determined meeting point further along the path.
Don’t leave litter.
Don’t tamper with the flora and fauna.
Don’t feed the baboons. If left alone they will pose no danger.
Dangers:
The most dangerous part of your trip will probably be driving to your destination. However, it is advisable to be aware of the possible ( if unlikely) dangers.
Falls:
Know your capabilities. Some of the routes can be dangerous to inexperienced hikers. In the case of a fall call for help. The Conservation services are well experienced in rescue and if the need arises can co opt the help of local helicopters operators, the air force, and the mountain club.
Snakes:
Luckily the only venomous snakes you are likely ( or unlikely) to encounter are the Rinkhals, Night Adder, Puff Adder, and Berg Adder. Sightings are rare so do not be overly concerned. If encountering a snake keep still, as they are movement sensitive, and allow then to move on. Do not Kill them. You are entering their territory and they form an important part of the ecological balance.
The Rinkhals is a cobra type snake ( but not a Cobra) which will usually get out of your way. It can spit venom in your eyes and in the case wash the eyes out immediately with liquid. It is also known tp “Play Dead” so never approach a “ dead” snake. The venom is neurotoxic and will effect the breathing. Fatalities are virtually unheard of.
Night Adders, Puff Adders, and Berg Adders. The main danger from these snakes are that they are sluggish and can be stepped on, in which case they will strike with lightening speed. They favor warm rocks and paths so be aware even in winter. The Night Adder, and Berg Adder are not particularly venomous and therefore are not considered life threatening but bites should be treated seriously. The Puff Adder is very dangerous and the venom is cell destroying and can cause death. The venom is however slow acting so does allow time to get to a medical facility.
You may also encounter the Natal Green snake particularly near rivers and streams. These are not the dreaded Green Mamba, which does not occur in the area, and are harmless.
Snake bite prevention and treatment. It is always advisable to wear long trousers, which will not only provide some protection from bites but also protect your legs from bramble thorns, and ankle covering boots. Most bites are reported to be to the lower limbs
Treatment:
Do not apply a tourniquet or cut the wound. The correct procedure is to apply a tight pressure bandage over the bite area ( from well above to well below the wound). If you do not have a pressure bandage tear up a T shirt. Use a splint to immobilize the limb. Keep the patient ( and the attendants for that matter) calm in order to lower heart beat and call for help.
Fires:
In the dryer winter months fires do occur. These may be due to controlled burning by the conservation authorities and will pose no danger. However runaway fires can occur and hikers must be wary of this danger as fatalities have occurred. Generally high winds will increase the risk. If an uncontrolled fire is approaching remember that fires travel rapidly up hill. Therefore move downwards away from the fire and into a vegetated river bed or other protected area. In the case of smoke cover your mouth and keep down low. Finally if a fire is approaching and you have no escape route you can back burn by starting your own fire in the path of the approaching fire and move into the burnt out area. If all else fails choose a spot and run through the fire into a burnt area.
Lightening:
In the summer months a characteristic of the Berg is the violent lightening storms. These are usually in the afternoon so avoid walking if a storm is approaching. If caught in a storm get out of open areas. Do not hide under a lone tree. Rather choose river valleys or rock outcrops and wait until the storm has passed.
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Hikes in the Champagne Valley itself
Blue Grotto:
This is a great 3 hour moderate walk through an indigenous forest onto a magnificent grotto with waterfall and pool. The hike starts from in front of the Drakensberg Sun Time Share Units past the Time share swimming pool. It is a well trodden path very suitable for the novice hiker but nevertheless offering one of the most magnificient routes in the area.
Barry’s Grave. A short way from the Blue Grotto you can visit the grave of Dick Barry. He was one of the early mountaineering pioneers of the area and fell to his death off Monks Cowl in 1938 at the tender age of 22. . Take the path from the right side of the Blue Grotto. Climb the hill and at the top of the hill on the left you will find the grave. You can carry on down the road back to Drak Sun via the site of the old Cathkin Hotel.( now the staff quarters for Drak Sun).
Van Dames Cascades via the blue grotto:
5 Hour fairly strenuous.. Follow the blue grotto route and just before the Blue Grotto take the steep path to the left. You will wind upwards to a plateau and then the path will veer right and you will then reach the fence of the World Heritage Site. Go through the access point and wind upwards for a very steep and strenuous climb. When reaching the top take the right path to Van Damms Cascades . The Path goes onto Jacobs Ladder ( not a ladder but a winding steep path)and the top of the Little Berg . The Left path can also be taken for to the Steilberg access route where when reaching the Steilberg path, you will have the option of turning left to the top of the Bergview cottages and back to Drak Sun, or carrying on straight to Monks Cowl gate ( a long walk) or going up the Steilberg to the top of the Little Berg.
Wonder Valley:
Five hours + moderate. This secluded and beautiful valley lies on the southern side of the Champagne Valley and is accessed from the R 600 either starting at the road bend just below Champagne Castle Hotel or just above the S Bends slightly above Falcon Ridge. This is private property although access is allowed to the public. If starting from Champagne Castle area follow the path from the top of the bend in the road and follow the contour footpath along the Heritage Site fence. After a long walk you will reach the valley and you will see one or 2 secluded cottages.
If starting from above the S Bends follow the path until you reach an unmanned locked gate to Cathkin Estates. Here you will have to take a detour to the right around a small waterfall, up the hill and past an african kraal. Follow the Road past the kraal on to Wonder Valley. There is a rock art site close to the kraal ( Black Ox shelter) but it can only be visited accompanied by a n AMAFA registered guide.
You can go further into the valley along the river course and will find numerous pools in the river. The south side of the valley up near the sandstone cliff face is also a little known rock art site. It is hard to find and may only be visited with an AMAFA registered guide.
Heritage Walk:
This easy 3 hour round walk starts at “The Oaks” Supermarket in Dragon Peaks Park and can also be accessed from the other properties in the area. However it does pass through private property and does enter the World Heritage Site so entrance fees must be paid and you must be accompanied by an approved guide. Walks generally commence most days at 9.00 am from the Oaks Supermarket. The walk goes up the Sterkspruit River on into Bush Reserve No 1 which is part of the World Heritage Site. Here you can see a 600 year old Yellow Wood tree and see the saw pits used by the early loggers. Mooney’s pool is a nice stop off place with a small pool with cascading water . The guide will then take you on to Dingaan’s Cave where you can view some good examples of bushman rock art.
Cleo’s Pool:
This is best approached from the top of Berghaven cottages although it can also be accessed from the Heritage Walk route detailed above. Take the well marked path from the top of Bergview moving southwards into the valley. The path is very steep and you will eventually reach a stream and Cleo’s pool. There is a small cave next to the stream which has an interesting burial site in the right side of the cave. The burial chamber was upright to cater for a body in a seated position and the remains of a bushman type person were removed for research purposes in the middle of the last Century but the stones of the grave can still be seen.
Hikes in the World Heritage Site
Easy ambles
Sterkspruit Falls:
This moderate walk starts at the Monks Cowl entrance . Take the well marked path down to the falls. 1 to 2 hours.
Robin Hood forest on to Crystal Falls. Take The Sphinx path. After a short walk you will come to the turn off the forest and the fern forest. The Sphinx path continues on to Crystal Falls. 2 to 3 hours.
Moderate Walks:
Round Trip to Sterkspruit Falls, onto Nandies Falls and Back to the Entrance. 3 to 4 hours. Take the path to Sterkspruit falls. Before the falls turn up the river and follow the signs to Nandies Falls. Spend some time at the rock pools on the way.
Day Hikes
The Sphinx and onto Breakfast stream back via Kirtland’s Pass. Moderate to Strenuous. + 6hours. This oft walked path takes you on to the top of the Little Berg ( Breakfast Stream) . If you like you can then go on to Blind Mans corner and the contour path. However unless you want to access the contour path for further hikes there is no point in going all the way to the contour path and a preferred option would be to turn off right before Blind Mans Corner and return via Kirtland’s Pass. This less used path offers a real wilderness experience winding down through a secluded valley.
Injasuti:
Strenuous day hike 8 hours plus. The best way to do this hike is in 2 teams one starting at Injasuti and the other at Monks Cowl and exchange car keys on the way. The other way is to be dropped off at Injasuti or arrange to be picked up there after the hike. From the Monks Cowl side take the path to Blind Mans Corner turning left at the contour path. Follow the path to Eland fence and follow the fence down. The Injasuti access is on the right side of the Plateau. If you miss the point and go on straight you will go on to Wonder Valley which is not a good returning option, and you will probably get lost and could have a rather strenuous hike back to the starting point. A good map is suggested. The path from the Injasuti camp side is well marked and starts from the mountain side of the camp to the right.
Sterkhorn ( 8 hours return. Strenuous and dangerous in places). Take the path to Blind Mans corner and turn left along the contour path. After a short distance you will see the path veering off to the right to the Sterkhorn. Follow up to the top.
Overnight Hikes
Keith Bush Camp and up Grey’s Path. ( To Keith Bush Camp and back allow 1 night, if going up Champagne Castle allow 2 nights). Good map essential. Tents essential. To Keith Bush Camp.
7 Hours. Moderate to strenuous. Take the path to Blind Mans corner and right along the contour path to Hlatikulu Neck. Follow the path left along the river valley. The path winds down into the river . Follow the path up the river course up until you reach the base of the Grey’s Pass path. Keith bush camp in close by on a small platform above the river.
The path up Grey’s pass is steep and eroded in places. Allow at least 8 hours to the top and back.
Zulu Cave:
(Moderate to strenuous. Overnight 7 hours. Can sleep in the cave but book at the Monks Cowl office. Good map essential ) Take the path to Blind Mans corner and right along the contour path to Hlatikulu neck. Follow the path left along the river valley towards Keith Bush camp. On the way you will see the Zulu cave path to the right.
Stable Cave:
( 7 to 9 hours overnight- map essential. Can sleep in the cave book at the Monks Cowl office) There are 3 routes to this cave. The longest one starts from the Monks Cowl Entrance . Follow the route to Blind Man’s Corner turn right along the contour path to Hlatikulu neck. At Hlatikulu neck turn right and follow the path for a long walk to Zulu Cave.
The second route starts at the top of Bergview ( the cottages above Drak Sun) . Take the path up to the Steilberg. When getting there go on up the Steilberg for a steep and strenuous climb up to the top of the Little Berg and turn right. Follow the path to Stable Cave.
The Third route is Via the Grotto, Van Dams Cascades and Jacobs Ladder ,up onto of the Little Berg turn right for a short walk to the cave..
