Rock Art of the Central Drakensberg

The Central Drakensberg  region, spanning from Giants Castle in the south to Dadima/ Cathedral Peak in the North,  offers some of the best examples of Bushman rock art in the country. This diminutive tribe, the  original inhabitants of the area, unfortunately  disappeared  towards the end of the 19 th century. Their  nomadic,  hunter-gatherer  lifestyle became severely restricted firstly, by the early nguni  tribes  encroachment into the interior, and then later by the  European settlers who took exception to the Bushman’s hunting and rustling of their cattle. Many were killed in “hot pursuit” operations and others either moved on or integrated into the nguni tribes.  The last known artifact is believed to be  a  bow and quivers   found in 1929 at Eland Cave  in the Didimi area.    Few  remnants  remain of their culture but fortunately  the painted caves offer some insight. A few of the  early explores also  took an interest in their art and culture and  from the early 1800’s there is a fair amount of  written data..  This is however a mere fraction of  their total history   as their roots go back tens of thousand years.  In many publications the politically correct term used  for the bushmen is “San” or “Koy San”  although this is probably incorrect as the San, and the Koy were groups within the “Bushman grouping” and calling them by this name is much the same as calling an Englishman a Scotsman.

The Meaning of the paintings

Although many of the messages in the paintings are shrouded in mystery common themes include the bushman’s close relationship with nature; their prey, of which the Eland features prominently; day to day life;a spiritual dimension, and the passing of history. A good guide or a study of the subject is essential for gaining even a small   glimmer of understanding. Many paintings depict Pherianthrope’s which could be  interpreted as men with   hunting head gear although it is known that the bushmen had strong spiritual leanings and some are thought to have been painted in a trance like state by Sharman and therefore  could depict scenes from the afterlife. Some paintings depict the passing history, as  illustrated by wagon and horseman painting in Bamboo Mountain,  and others, such as the cattle paintings in Dingaans Cave, and Black Ox Cave in the Champagne Valley   seem to indicate a liaison with the nguni tribes as the Bushmen never kept cattle.  Battle scenes and hunting scenes also feature prominently and a visit to Battle Cave in Injasuti can be a chilling reminder of man’s war like nature with it’s  bleeding warriors and men folk being restraining  form the battle by their womenfolk.

Rock Art Protocol

Cave sites may only be entered if accompanied by an IMAFA registered guide. Fortunately   however most of the main sites are within the uKhahlamba Park and organized daily trips are available.

Giants Castle

Main Cave:

This painted shelter is easily accessed  and is a short walk from the Giants Castle camp. The site is fenced and  guided tours commence at the cave entrance hourly 9.00 am to 3.00 pm. They take a maximum of  13 people at a time, so get there early,   and cost R 25.00  ( tickets available at Giants Castle reception phone 036 3533718). This is an extensively painted cave although it has  badly weathered  over time. The Park authorities have built  walk ways to protect  the cave floor and   prevent direct access to the rock face.  There is also a   life sized  bushman  model scene depicting the life of a bushman family.  The guides are informative and will explain the various panels.

Injasuti (Meaning Valley of the dogs)

Battle Cave:

This cave is reached from the Injasuti camp. It is a 5 hour round trip  guided walk which leaves daily at 8.30 am. Booking essential – phone 036 4319000. Cost R 50.00  The cave is fenced so cannot be accessed without a guide. It is famous for the extensive battle scene, a chilling reminder that the idealistic  hunter gatherer lifestyle was occasionally marred by  conflict.

Champagne Valley

Although extensively painted many of the paintings are  on private property and their whereabouts a closely guarded secret.

Cow Cave ( also known as Boschrand):This cave is accessed from The Oaks Supermarket in Dragon Peaks Park and is a guided trip leaving most mornings at 9.00 am. The path  goes through private property and the paintings are on private property so a guide is essential. It is a pleasant round walk of approximately 3 hours. The panels are well preserved and depict several buck species and a painting of a cow, probably   indicating contact between the Bushmen and the Inguni tribes..

Black Ox shelter:This delightful cave, the beauty of which has been marred by alien vegetation encroachment, is situated on the way to Wonder Valley. Follow the track from above the S Bends almost opposite Falcon Ridge to the Cathkin Estates fence, just before their dam, and circumnavigate the dam in a southward direction. You will pass a small kraal and follow the track for about a kilometer to a small dip in the track. A path leads  to the  right up to this almost obscure site. Remember  you need an AMAFA registered guide to visit this site.

Maartens shelter:This small site is situated on the path between Champagne Castle Hotel and  The Sphinx path at Monks Cowl . It is well marked and is a small set of paintings of Mountain Reed Buck  on the underside of a large fallen rock.

Buys cave:This cave is situated at the Afriquest development along the road to  Bell Park Dam. The paintings are a short distance west from the main farmhouse. The large cave has been somewhat trashed by soldiers who occupied it in the early 1900’s . But this is  a history in itself as there is a  carving of the regimental badge in one of the rock faces.The cave has also been trashed by recent grafitti and crude attempts to copy the paintings in blue paint a great pity as this good example of out natural history has been badly damaged. Access by permission of the owners.

Dingaans cave:There are 2, possibly  3, painted caves at Fernwood lodge of which one is  easily accessible. It is fairly extensively painted  with several panels of buck and some human figures, although they are very faded. Nevertheless, it is worth a visit but as it is on private property permission from the management is necessary.

Ama Swazi:About 4 km north of Cayley Lodge ( now holiday club) above the Ama Swazi settlement is an extensive rock ledge where 2 small streams enter the valley below. On the South side of this ledge is a small overhand with some reasonably well preserved paintings comprising of a few Eland some  other antelope, human figures and a very faint therianthrope (half human half animal drawing).

Arthur’s Seat: There is a small painted panel on the Eastern side of Arthur’s Seat. Access is through private property so permission is required and they are hard to find so a guide would be necessary.

Wonder Valley:This valley lies between the Champagne Valley and Injasuti and can be accessed after a long walk from the R 600 just below Champagne Castle Hotel. This is private property so access is only by permission of the owners. There are reputed to be some good paintings but their location is a closely guarded secret. I have seen a few small paintings below the sandstone cliff on the Southern side of the valley.

uKhahlamba Park- Monks Cowl: A number of sites can be accessed from the Monks Cowl Entrance to the Ukhahlamba world heritage site. Generally however these are hard to find as none of the modern maps show the painted caves ( in an attempt to restrict access), and  it requires  a long walk. Remember you need to have an IMAFA registered guide to access these sites.

Cat Cave:This painted cave is close to Zulu Cave. It requires a long walk up the Sphinx path to Breakfast Stream and on to  Blind Man’s Corner and the contour path. Turn right at the contour path to Hlathikulu Neck  taking the  Keith Bush Camp turnoff.  The path to  Zulu Cave turns off to the right on the Keith Bush Camp path. An overnight stay is suggested as it is a long way.

Anton’s Shelter:This small shelter on top of the Little Berg overlooking the valley has a few good paintings. It is on the path past Stable Cave and is a long walk starting either at Monks Cowl or from above Berg View  taking the Jacobs Ladder path.

Vaal Rhebuck Cave: This  painted cave  lies beyond  Stable Cave, a long walk probably requiring an overnight stay.

Leopard Cave: This cave lies on the edge of the Didima gorge half way between Monks Cowl and Didima/ Cathedral Peak. There is a single painting of a leopard chasing a man and by the closeness off the encounter  it is definitely not a self portrait.

Eland Cave:This extensively painted cave, one of the best painted sites in the country, is situated on the South Eastern side of the Didima valley. It can either be accessed from Monks Cowl or from the Didima / Cathedral Peak side. It is an extremely long hike from either side and should be done as an overnight trip. The paintings are well preserved and are numerous and varied. This cave is the last recorded contact with  Bushmen  and is the site where a  bow and quivers were found in 1931.

Didima Valley: Rock Art Interpretive Centre. The conservation authorities have established Rock Art Interpretive Centre at the Didima Camp and   a top class audio visual shows are presented on a daily basis. These offer a good insight into the life of the Bushmen and their Rock Art. The center opens at 8.00 am and closes at 4.00 pm and presents shows every hour. (however phone beforehand to check times  036 4888000)